Keo.co.za tour diary – Week 3
29 Nov 2009
The uninspiring home of Guinness, respecting tradition and weather to make your teeth chatter.
Dublin threatens your emotional well-being. Every day began much the same, with depressingly low temperatures exacerbated by soul-destroying winds and rain that was never quite strong enough to drive you from the street, but often severe enough to sting any exposed skin. And the subzero weather on game day made winter in Bloemfontein seem like a lark on Clifton 4th. The locals tell me that in January people rarely go out at night. Not for the faint-hearted.
The worst thing about the Dublin weather is that it never lasts. Bad weather is succeeded by sunshine which lasts just long enough for you to consider changing your perception of the city’s climate. As soon as that decision’s made, it’s clouded over again, the wind’s picked up and rain is inevitably on the way. It’s little wonder the locals seek refuge in the more consistent climes of bars and pubs.
Like the walkways of London and Toulouse, the city’s streets are constantly congested, the bustle of the famous Grafton Street sure to claim you if you’re not paying attention. Rain or shine, performers and singers entertain passers-by with popular renditions of English and native Gaelic songs, and the traditional Irish music is prominent.
Dublin city centre is not a big place, which made Saffa spotting easier than usual. By Friday, you couldn’t go anywhere without seeing a green and gold jersey or hearing an Afrikaans phrase. Traipsing around town, you’re also likely to see a few Irish players going about there business, Tommy Bowe and Tomas O’Leary just a couple who were spotted.
South Africa has its fair share of adverts featuring famous sportsmen. You’ll all remember the “Schalk Burger Burger” ad for Steers, and will have seen the hilarious Bic shaving ads with the Beast. In Ireland, they don’t recruit the national stars unless it’s really important. ‘Get behind Ireland’s dairy farmers, I do,’ advises Paul O’Connell before chugging a glass of milk.
Peter de Villiers said he was sick and tired of all the physicality talk in the build up to the Ireland game. Nobody asked him if the Irish were physical afterward, but everyone asked the hosts about the Boks’ belligerent approach. No 8 Jamie Heaslip, who’ll give as good as he gets on the pitch, had this for an answer: ‘Well they’ll never be accused of being ladyboys, now will they?’
Dublin’s an old city with plenty of cultural sites to explore. Fans of writers James Joyce and William Butler Yeats may opt to pay homage at the respective museums and exhibits, while those at the other end of the culture scale will take a leisurely stroll out to the Guinness Storehouse. I wish I could say the latter visit was amazing, but you can only get so excited about brewery processes. One thing is for certain, however – Guinness tastes a whole lot better when you’re in Ireland.
Croke Park crammed in 75 000 people for Saturday’s game, and the majority of the crowd managed to respect tradition. Throughout most stadiums in Europe, you can hear a pin drop when a kicker – from the home or local side – lines up a shot at goal. It’s something South African fans will never get used to. On this tour alone, these moments have been marred by loutish cries of ‘Bokke!’ and ‘Miss, miss!’ At the Stade Velodrome in Marseille, the crowd sat in awed silence in order to appreciate the haka. When the All Blacks perform their traditional war dance in South Africa, it’s usually drowned out by cries of ‘Ole, ole, ole!’ I suppose you have to allow for freedom of speech, but those who come to the respective rugby grounds to appreciate these traditions are ultimately the ones who lose out.
By Jon Cardinelli, in Dublin
114 Comments
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29 Nov 2009, 21:50 pm
@Kennedy111: Yes, they were tired but Ireland deserved to win. As a Springbok fan I am just grateful for the performances of the team this year. They have won in the games that really mattered – a clean sweep against the AB’s and they won the BI Lions series.
Although it would have been good to win against IRelnd, sometimes a loss puts things in perspective and valuable lessons can be learned. It seems the Bok mgt do learn from their mistakes, from the subs against the BI Lions to the front row, to the overseas player issue. Hopefully these guys all get time for rest now.
Ireland, however were good value. It seems that Kidney is a really good coach and man. He has a good support team – Smal and others and the players respect him. Wasnt he coach of Munster?
29 Nov 2009, 21:57 pm
@CenturionShark (aka LondonShark): Not balanced.
Fetcher/openside = McCaw, Blindside = Elsom.
Sometimes Aus play two fetchers, with hybrid roles, and SA (Before Brussouw) always used to play two blindsides with hybrid roles.
Not the same as two excellent specialists – my opinion, though
29 Nov 2009, 22:04 pm
@ Heavens game
Agree with you 100%. A loss can sometimes forcefully remove the constant one dimensional game plan of a team that has won alot of games. maybe SA will inject more back play next time rather than the kick and chase…
I thought we deserved to win yesterday too.. and if we are to believe that we are a world class side than we need to beat world class teams like SA and the AB’s on a regular basis(which includes beating the AB’s even once as we have not done so yet in our history – shocking fact)
Yeah kidney was coach of munster.. was extremely succesful.. winning the european cup twice, getting to 4 finals and reaching the knockout stages of the competition every year since 1999.
Are you guys happy with PDV?My south african cousins seem indifferent to him when i asked them…
29 Nov 2009, 22:15 pm
@Kennedy111: The PdV question has loads of emotional baggage and has been the focus of much debate. You mat start a sh*testorm here!!
My personal opinion is that he has done a good job this year. He is a good coach and seems to learn from mistakes.
His experience at top level coaching is minimal compared to Henry, McGeechan, even Gatland. For a second year of coaching a top tier team he has done pretty well. He was coach of the SA U21′s before this job but has not coached a Top tier Currie CUp or Super 14 team like Robbie Deans.
He seem to be unfairly judged on his public comments because English is not his 1st language, but I would blame that on SARU management. Now those are a bunch of snakes.
In SA the coach and captain take inordinate amount of flak but the Suits of SARU seem to get away with all their bad decisions. eg. Super 15 next year.
29 Nov 2009, 22:51 pm
Fair enough Heavens Game.. il quickly retreat before i start an overworked debate : )
I think he has been a great coach. You guys broke my heart during the lions test series..and looking at it at a micro level he was brazen enough to bring on M Steyn in the second test, who (as we all know too well!)went on to knock over the series wining penalty.
Good chatting to you guys
29 Nov 2009, 23:00 pm
As much as I like FDP, him and Steyn looked like a right old pair of one trick ponies yesterday.
I watched the Oz v Wales game and I don’t think they kicked half the amount of up-and-unders we do. A bit of creativity at flyhalf goes a long way….
29 Nov 2009, 23:34 pm
@Valkyrie:
Im wondering. Is this behaviour regarded as normal when youre just out of your teens ?
When I was that age, we call those types ‘try-hards’. The modern vernacular ‘wannabe’ skirts around the same territory but doesnt quite hit the nail on the head as well as Try-Hard.
29 Nov 2009, 23:40 pm
@SodaJoe:
Well said that man.
Dublin ?!
Ive been there a number of times but canne’er remember the place.
What JC could have taken the opportunity was to visit the Dublin Writers museum and not only absorb the richly layered history of Irish culture but also to PICK UP A FEW TIPS !!!
I supposed he dissed Edinburgh when the Boks lost there a few years back too…..
Not everywhere can be as exciting as Hamilton and Bloemfontein y’know !
30 Nov 2009, 00:24 am
@Heavens Game:
Good points, depends on the opposition though.
The Boks missed Juan Smith big time! He gave us that balance. Not to mention Spies.
30 Nov 2009, 00:57 am
@CenturionShark (aka LondonShark):
I agree. Boks missed Juan more than anyone. I always was bemused how much Bok fans went on about Burger being the Messiah (when he’s not, he’s just a naughty boy !) but I always thought he was more brawn, less brain. Whereas Juan Smith ia the real deal. Smart, physical, makes right decisions.
He’ll be back. But some of those key Bok fixtures certainly are starting to creak and groan…
30 Nov 2009, 04:46 am
“Traipsing around town, you’re also likely to see a few Irish players going about there business…”
There should be their.
30 Nov 2009, 05:02 am
This article is a joke surely… as an irish man i can’t even dis SA properly in return while using this medium… after all a third of your population are illiterate. No wonder they made a balls of their line out calls lol!
30 Nov 2009, 06:12 am
I have a question for those that my deem themselves to be objective.
Given the end of year your results for the Spring Boks, which regardless of how you may want to look at it are just not good enough. A full strength tri nations winning Bok side lost to France and Ireland. No one would have thought that feasible given all that’s gone on this year.
Now taking into account EOYT results and last years 3N results are SA really the best team in the world candidates or more Tournament Winners? I don’t contest the World Champions title based on having the WC, but Wales are the WCs of 7s and no one can say they are the best side in the World.
For Bok fans, how do you reconcile the losses with the world titles?
1 Dec 2009, 15:30 pm
Nice article JC, if a bit melodramatic about the weather. Dubs is actually quite mild.
I will agree with you on the point of there should be silence when there is a kick happening, BUT I will not agree on the point of the Haka. It should be sung over, drowned out and scorned by opposition crowds.
Why should we sit in respectful silence for an opposition team that show no respect for our team? Nooit china
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